可持續時尚新動向：Canopy強調合作與創新以推動纖維供應鏈綠色轉型

非營利組織Canopy近日發布最新《Hot Button報告》，對全球再生纖維素纖維（MMCF）生產商進行評估，並以「襯衫顏色」標示其環境影響程度。報告指出，今年綠色等級（低風險）的生產商供應量占全球總量的53%，較2023年的54%有所下降，儘管相比2021年的50%仍略有增長。同時，紅色等級（高風險）的生產商因併購與產能擴張，其影響力進一步上升，成為全球纖維產業可持續發展的挑戰之一。

The non-profit organization Canopy recently released the latest "Hot Button Report", which evaluates global regenerated cellulose fiber (MMCF) manufacturers and uses "shirt color" to indicate their environmental impact. The report pointed out that this year's supply from green-level (low-risk) manufacturers accounted for 53% of the global total, a decrease from 54% in 2023, although it is still a slight increase compared with 50% in 2021. At the same time, the influence of red-level (high-risk) manufacturers has further increased due to mergers and acquisitions and capacity expansion, becoming one of the challenges to the sustainable development of the global fiber industry.

報告評級機制與整體概況

Canopy採用「襯衫顏色」系統對MMCF生產商進行分級，紅色表示企業可能涉及從古老及瀕危森林中採購纖維，或未與Canopy合作；深綠色則代表企業在可持續發展方面處於領先地位。此外，部分公司被標示為白色，表示其剛開始與Canopy接觸或尚未接受全面評估。

Report rating mechanism and overall overview

Canopy uses a "shirt color" system to grade MMCF manufacturers. Red indicates that the company may be involved in sourcing fiber from ancient and endangered forests, or has not cooperated with Canopy; dark green indicates that the company is in a leading position in sustainable development. In addition, some companies are marked in white, indicating that they have just begun contact with Canopy or have not yet been fully evaluated.

今年，獲得綠色等級及以上的生產商供應量占比達53%，儘管略低於2023年，但依然顯示可持續發展生產商在全球市場中的重要地位。報告同時指出，全球MMCF需求顯著增長，僅今年就新增了近50萬噸產能，其中大部分來自紅色等級的高風險生產商。

This year, the supply of manufacturers with green grades and above accounted for 53%. Although it is slightly lower than that in 2023, it still shows the important position of sustainable manufacturers in the global market. The report also pointed out that global MMCF demand has grown significantly, with nearly 500,000 tons of new production capacity added this year alone, most of which comes from red-level high-risk producers.

紅色等級企業影響加劇

Canopy在聲明中指出，綠色等級占比下降的原因主要是紅色等級生產商通過併購其他企業及擴大產能，導致綠色等級纖維供應量減少。這一現象凸顯了全球纖維行業在推動供應鏈可持續發展方面面臨的挑戰。

此外，報告顯示，紅色等級生產商的市場擴張對於森林保護、生物多樣性及碳減排目標構成威脅，呼籲行業和政策制定者加強監管與合作，以減少高風險行為對環境的負面影響。

品牌支持與行業轉型的希望

《Hot Button報告》不僅是一份行業現狀的分析，同時也是推動變革的指南。知名時尚品牌H&M集團在新聞稿中對報告的價值表示認可。H&M永續業務專家Madelene Ericsson Ryman表示：「《Hot Button報告》是我們減少材料碳足跡及生物多樣性影響的重要工具。自2020年起，H&M集團僅與綠色等級生產商合作。我們特別欣慰看到越來越多的MMCF生產商將古老及瀕危森林排除於價值鏈之外，並提升Next Gen材料的利用率。」

The impact of red-level companies is intensifying

Canopy pointed out in the statement that the main reason for the decrease in the proportion of green grade is that red grade manufacturers have reduced the supply of green grade fiber through mergers and acquisitions of other companies and expansion of production capacity. This phenomenon highlights the challenges faced by the global fiber industry in promoting supply chain sustainability.

In addition, the report shows that the market expansion of red-level producers poses a threat to forest protection, biodiversity and carbon emission reduction goals, calling on industry and policymakers to strengthen supervision and cooperation to reduce the negative impact of high-risk behaviors on the environment.

Brand support and hope for industry transformation

The "Hot Button Report" is not only an analysis of the current status of the industry, but also a guide to promote change. The well-known fashion brand H&M Group recognized the value of the report in a press release. Madelene Ericsson Ryman, sustainable business expert at H&M, said: "The Hot Button Report is an important tool for us to reduce the carbon footprint and biodiversity impact of materials. Since 2020, the H&M Group will only cooperate with green-level manufacturers. We are particularly pleased to see more and more MMCF producers excluding ancient and endangered forests from the value chain and increasing the utilization of Next Gen materials."

Next Gen材料的發展被認為是紡織行業實現可持續目標的重要途徑。例如利用廢棄物和消費後回收材料製成的新型再生纖維素纖維，既減少對森林的依賴，也為行業提供了低碳解決方案。

The development of Next Gen materials is considered an important way for the textile industry to achieve sustainability goals. For example, new regenerated cellulose fibers made from waste and post-consumer recycled materials not only reduce dependence on forests, but also provide low-carbon solutions for the industry.

合作與創新是關鍵

Cooperation and innovation are key

儘管科學創新和品牌承諾推動了Next Gen材料的應用，Canopy強調，時尚與家居紡織品價值鏈的公司仍需加強合作，才能帶來真正的變革。Canopy在聲明中指出：「這種合作對於擴大循環材料的使用至關重要，既能保護森林，支持地方經濟，又能為市場提供穩定的低碳紡織品供應。」

Although scientific innovation and brand promise are driving the application of Next Gen materials, Canopy emphasized that companies in the fashion and home textile value chain still need to strengthen cooperation to bring about real change. "This collaboration is critical to expanding the use of recycled materials, protecting forests, supporting local economies, and providing a stable supply of low-carbon textiles to the market," Canopy said in a statement.

Canopy呼籲更多企業加入其可持續發展倡議，共同推動纖維供應鏈的環保轉型，並為下一代提供更為健康的生態系統與可持續的經濟模式。此次報告不僅展現了當前行業的挑戰，也為未來的發展指明了方向。

Canopy calls on more companies to join its sustainable development initiative to jointly promote the environmental transformation of the fiber supply chain and provide a healthier ecosystem and sustainable economic model for the next generation. This report not only shows the current industry challenges, but also points out the direction for future development.