修補過的鞋，也可以很潮！

運動鞋（Sneakers）不僅是時尚產業的長青單品，也逐漸成為多功能日常穿搭的選擇。在永續意識高漲的今日，球鞋產業正積極導入可回收、生物基或部分可分解材料，試圖擺脫傳統石化材質依賴，轉向更具環境友善的設計與製造方式。

Sneakers have long been a staple in the fashion world - and increasingly a go-to for multifunctional everyday wear. As sustainability awareness continues to rise, the sneaker industry is actively exploring recyclable, bio-based, and partially biodegradable materials to reduce reliance on traditional petrochemicals and shift toward more environmentally friendly design and manufacturing practices.

來自義大利阿雷佐的永續顧問公司 Ollum srl 共同創辦人兼執行長薩維里歐・拉皮尼（Saverio Lapini）近日接受《FashionUnited》專訪，深入剖析當前球鞋永續化的關鍵進展與挑戰。

In a recent interview with FashionUnited, Saverio Lapini, co-founder and CEO of Ollum srl, a sustainability consultancy based in Arezzo, Italy, offered insights into key developments and persistent challenges in making sneakers more sustainable.

From Petrochemicals to Natural Fibers and Bio-Based Alternatives

傳統材料轉向自然纖維與生質替代品

過去球鞋生產大量仰賴橡膠與聚酯纖維等石化原料，對環境造成高度負擔。隨著政策與市場壓力升溫，品牌開始採用例如麻纖維等天然紗線，以及可分解、生質或可回收的塑膠替代材料。拉皮尼指出，這樣的轉變雖具有象徵意義，但天然材質在耐用性與結構穩定性上，仍難以全面取代傳統合成物。

「為因應製程需求，部分生質橡膠需經過與石化材料類似的合成程序，這雖有助維持製造效率，但最終仍須評估其全生命週期環境效益，」拉皮尼說。

Historically, sneaker production has heavily depended on fossil-derived materials like rubber and polyester, which have significant environmental impacts. Driven by increasing regulatory and market pressures, brands have begun adopting natural fibers such as hemp, as well as biodegradable, bio-based, or recyclable plastic substitutes.

Lapini noted that while this shift is symbolically important, natural materials often lack the durability and structural stability of traditional synthetics.

“To meet manufacturing requirements, some bio-based rubbers must still undergo synthetic processes similar to those used in petrochemical materials,” he explained. “While this helps maintain production efficiency, the overall environmental benefit must be assessed across the full life cycle.”

永續製程可減碳三分之一，壽命與售後仍為瓶頸

根據 Ollum 的估算，以可持續材料製作的球鞋，其製造過程的環境足跡約可比傳統產品減少三分之一。然而這樣的「立即減碳」效益仍存兩大問題：

首先，許多替代材料的使用壽命短於傳統選項，導致產品更新週期無法拉長，整體資源消耗模式未能根本改變；其次，品牌鮮少提供球鞋維修服務，無法滿足愈來愈多消費者「願意修、不想丟」的期待。

拉皮尼強調，推動球鞋永續的下一步，應從「設計即修復（Design for Repair）」與建置可追溯的售後機制著手。

Sustainable Manufacturing Can Cut Emissions by a Third, But Lifespan and Aftercare Lag Behind

According to Ollum ’s estimates, sneakers made with sustainable materials can reduce the environmental impact of production by around one-third compared to conventional products. However, Lapini identified two major limitations to this “immediate carbon reduction” benefit:

To move forward, Lapini urged the industry to embrace “design for repair” principles and establish robust aftercare systems with traceability.

The Cultural Challenge of Sustainable Fashion: “Worn-In Can Be Cool”

“Brands should not only focus on pushing new products but also make ‘repaired’ sneakers part of the fashion narrative,” said Lapini. He suggested that designers incorporate visible mending and aged aesthetics into their design language to make worn and repaired sneakers fashionable and desirable.

永續時尚的文化挑戰：「舊的」也可以是潮的

「品牌不該只追求新品銷售，也應讓『修補過的』商品成為時尚舞台的一部分。」拉皮尼指出，品牌與設計師若能將修補痕跡、舊化感融入設計語彙，讓『舊鞋』與『修鞋』變得更有型、更酷，將有助於永續消費觀念的主流化。

成本與產地限制，量產永續球鞋仍有難度

目前多數品牌僅推出單一永續鞋款或小規模產品線，難以達到量產規模。永續材料如生質橡膠、可分解纖維等因產量有限、生產技術門檻高，價格通常較高。雖然材料成本僅占最終球鞋售價的約 20%，但其仍對利潤敏感的品牌造成不小壓力。

Scaling Up Sustainable Sneakers: Cost, Supply, and Sourcing Hurdles

To date, most brands have launched only a few sustainable sneaker models or limited product lines. Materials such as bio-based rubbers and biodegradable fibers remain costly due to limited availability and high production barriers. Although material costs represent only about 20% of a sneaker’s final retail price, the added expense still poses a significant challenge for profit-sensitive brands.

Moreover, sourcing remains concentrated in niche regions - primarily Italy’s Marche region and parts of Southeast Asia - limiting scalability and cost competition.

此外，目前主要供應商集中於義大利馬爾凱大區與東南亞地區，形成小規模、低競價的利基市場，亦限制了永續鞋款的普及速度。

企業缺乏長遠永續視野，專業人才難留任

Lack of Strategic Vision and Culture Hinders Talent Retention

除了技術與成本挑戰，拉皮尼點出，當前不少企業雖有意投入永續轉型，卻缺乏長期策略與內部專業文化，導致具備永續專長的年輕人才進入公司後，發現缺乏落實空間，最終選擇離職。

Beyond the technical and financial obstacles, Lapini emphasized a deeper problem: many companies, despite showing interest in sustainability, lack long-term strategies and internal cultures to support real transformation. As a result, young professionals with sustainability expertise often leave after finding little opportunity to make a meaningful impact.

「永續不只是產品材料的改變，更是企業治理與文化的轉型，」拉皮尼強調，「唯有將永續作為核心願景與營運邏輯，企業才能真正贏得未來世代的信任與支持。」

“Sustainability isn’t just about changing materials - it’s about transforming corporate governance and culture,” Lapini said. “Only when companies embrace sustainability as a core vision and operating logic can they earn the trust and support of future generations.”